Dem Travels: Book 2- Attack on Kumasi

It was a long journey from Togo. There were hours lost in travel, lack of air consumed from over heated tro tros, and restless nights on too small of sofas in curious rooms in Accra. A full day in Accra before heading back to Kumasi from Togo...but the day came and I made my travels back to Kumasi to reclaim it as my own for less than a day.

And all it would take is less than a day for the attack.

I traveled from Circle Station to Kumasi fairly early on a Wednesday morning to head back. After about 2 hours waiting for my tro to fill up I ended back in Kumasi 4 ½ hours later. A taxi ride and tro ride later I was back home. It was a great relief. Just to be in the same spot again. To sleep and lay down on the same bed and be around the normal surroundings. I like to travel and go about, but after a while Antoa has become a sort of home and I miss it after many days. Leaving Chicago and Boston, or any of the other places I lived had a similar effect too.

The stay was eventful and calming. I rested for a bot before realizing we would not have power that night, running out of gas for our kitchen and stove, and helping Kaia get ready to leave before her trip to Accra and then back to America. I made some more Ghanian food, and just enjoyed the last bit of time I had with Kaia before she would ultimately leave me for the land of the free.

We left Thursday from Ejisu to Accra pretty late. Taking a tro tro that filled quickly, but made a lot of stops. I was heading back to Accra again. The last time for a while it would appear. But as we approached the dirt road that would lead us to Circle Station again I realized that the story of the Accra Wars had yet to be told. Yet to be fully realized.

It is now I will tell you of the battles fought in the Accra Wars. The cedis lost, the drinks consumed in victory, the despair felt in the Ghana heat.

These are the Accra Wars.  

Dem Travels: Book 1- The Togo Phantom

The Travel Wars starts as any would. A travel to somewhere. For me, that travel was to Togo. More specifically, Lome. Every 60 days I need to make what is known as a “border run” to a neighboring country. Why? Although I have a multi entry visa into Ghana, I still have to leave every 60 days to renew it. This means I will go to a near by country, cross the border, and then come back. Usually because I have to go all the way to another country, many of us opt to just spend a few days in the place to enjoy it.

My friend and co-worker Patrick decided we would travel to Togo together and stay one or two nights in Togo.

For all purposes it was going to be a relatively easy trip. We would go in and go out. However, there were some uncertainty. We were leaving on Sunday to go from Antoa to Accra, and would head to Togo on Monday. Togo was holding presidential elections on Saturday. Why such a big deal? Well, if the current president was re-elected, his family would have been in power for close to 50 years in Togo. As well, the opposition party said that if they lost they would protest and riot. Oh, and by the way. The current president's father? The one who was in power before his son? Yea, he came in through a military coup....So going in we were unsure what would happen. Maybe nothing? Or maybe they would seal the borders and we couldn't get in or get out. Eh, lets find out!

The adventure began in Antoa, where we took a 40 minute tro to Kejita to catch a tro tro to Accra. I had never taken one to Accra, usually opting for the air conditioned buses. But we figured it may be faster and I heard people yelling for Accra when I went to one station to go to Techimon for Easter Break. I was proud of myself because I was able to navigate to the station from the Dr. Mensa Station, aka the Antoa station, easily and we found ourselves loaded and ready to go in about 30 – 45 minutes. A significantly shorter amount of time to the couple of hours an air conditioned bus can take.

It was pretty smooth sailing. It took us about 4 ½ hours and we took a taxi to the Salvation Army to stay with our friend Kwama. After getting dinner, having a few drinks, and calling a draw on a bet between Kwama and I on the most loved football team in Ghana, we went to sleep.

In the morning we woke to a slow start and then heading to the Tema station to catch a tro to Afloa, the bordering village between Ghana and Togo. Again, pretty easy ride in. About 4 hours from Accra. We got off the tro, had our money exchanged (where I was jipped 5,000 cefa), and went through immigration in Ghana, then immigration to Togo.

It was crazy the differences. In Ghana you can find English easily and people really don't get too bothered with English. Togo immigration, full on French with no forgiveness. Oh, and I know basically no French....so that set up the trip for fun times all around. Also the other big difference is transportation. In Ghana you find tro tros everywhere. In Togo, it be motos. Everyone is on them and you see them in all types of places. We took a moto to the hotel we were staying at that was about a half mile away. I did have an exilarating freak out where I was screaming to the driver that I never was on a moto before and he silently drove on without understanding me. Pretty comical if I must say.

The hotel was very nice. We shared a bed in the “backpacker room.” Afterward, Pat needed to go find an ATM to take out some more cefa. The hotel is a block from the public beach and you can walk for a long time just on the sidewalk on the side of the beach to the commercial areas. It is really beautiful. The water is a magnificent blue and you see wooden boats all along the side. Of course, we didn't view the beautiful landscape first. We got lost on a road before we turned around, asked for directions again, then walked along the beach. It was about a 1 km walk. We were about half way when a black SUV drove up to us. Apparently it was a man named Phillip who worked with the French embassy. He said there were a lot of robbings on the beach and that it was dangerous. That he would drive us where we needed to go. So Pat and I hopped in and he drove us to the ATM. Nice guy. We got da money, then walked on the other side away from the beach. Perfectly fine.

After that we were both starving and we went on the search for food. It was a search all right. Most of Lome was very silent. It was a phantom town with not much activity and many shops closed. Pat was looking for a chop shop, a place that sells a small amount of food for cheap. But it was proving difficult. We walked up roads, side roads, alleys, and found nothing. He said last time he came you could find them everywhere. But that Monday? Nothing.

Eventually in broken French, Pat was able to ask a woman and she pointed in a direction. It was a shop, but really no one was there to eat yet. I guess to early? Who knows. There was a young girl there and a young woman. Pat tentatively looked at them and in small, whispering, and questioning English he asked, “Spaghetti?” The girl nodded and it appeared fine. Then, Pat wanted to try and explain that I didn't eat meat or fish. He said it multiple times in his attempts in French and English, but confused eyes looked on. The young woman asked another woman to come in. Pat explained again in the same method. Still confusion. The woman goes to get another man. Repeat. Go get another man. Repeat, THEN SUCCESS. After the 5^th person in we were able to explain what I could eat and the girl understood. I realize it is my own fault for not knowing French fully and I promise I will make an effor to learn more. Promise. Anways, we sat down to drink our beers while we waited for our food. Pat said thank you in French, and at that point I was for not caring and hungry, so I said thank you in Twi. The woman understood me... Then Pat asked her, “Wo te twi (do you speak Twi)? And the woman responded yes in Twi. Lesson learned? Maybe I shouldn't learn French and speak Twi everywhere and say fuck it. Cause at that point I put down my hands and said, “Fuck it I'm speaking dat Twi from now on!”

The food was great though and it was a very relaxing time. We walked back to the hotel a few hours later and Pat decided to chill at the hotel bar. I wanted to just sit down on the beach for a few and soak in the sun set on the water. The owner of the hotel said that was all fine, but he recommended that I come back before dark to avoid any issues that may come up with the election results possibly being told. So I walked to the beach, put my cloth on the sand, sat down, and sketched a bit. It was nice to see families gather together and people playing in the boats on the shore as the sun began its descent.

As I was sitting there though, a young man approached me and sat down. I was a bit startled considering what we had heard about robbings. Luckily I did not bring anything with me, so I wasn't too afraid. He began to chat, say his name and where he was from (Nigeria) and that he was an artist. A tattoo artist specifically and then be pulled his shorts down to show me the ink on his upper thighs. God thing he had underwear on...As we were chatting another person came by. This one was a friend and he was admiring my tattoos as well. Both were pretty friendly and clearly wanted me to somehow work some magic to get them a passport, but I told them I was married to a man named Kofi from Tamale who was a police officer and didn't like sharing. Nice enough guys though.

After that, I went back inside and just chilled for a while. Pat and I were planning on going to a rooftop bar later so we just waited. Of course, when we finally went out we found out the bar was closed for the night and we retreated to a beach bar. Not a bad second option, sharing a beer in the sand, waves crashing on your right and an ocean breeze.

The rest of the trip was pretty relaxed. Waking up in the morning to journey for pastries and coffee back at the hotel. It was a nice luxary. Something special just to take in that was different from Kumasi and Antoa life.

I eventually said good bye to Togo on the back of another moto. Driving past the empty roads and silent beaches it was like a phantom was still there. The whole country seemed like it was in a state of suspended animation as it waited for the results, and everyone just wondering what would happen next.

In any case, I walked through immigration with a smile and my passport from Togo to Ghana. My visa now good for another 60 days I headed back to Accra with Pat to stay a night with a friend and then the next adventure in my sights. Kumasi. Though it would be for less than a day, my eyes were on the prize.

It would be an attack on Kumasi...

Dem Travels: The Prequel- Women Who Stare at the End of Term

The end of term was wrapping up. The horizon was here. At least that is what I was thinking as the time went on. Of all the program associates with Expo, I think I was the only one going on as long as I did. The peer to peer program wrapped up with its final on April 16^th and we had our celebration on the 21^st.

It all went well for the most part. For the final exam, 25 students came in to take it (we had originally 36 sign up at the start) and of that, we had a 261% growth on the class average in math and 192% in English. Now, the numbers are so high when you consider that on the math section the average number of questions right out of 15 was 1...so really it can only hopefully go up.

On the 21^st we had a short celebration. We (the tutors with me passing out candy) handed out certificates for: perfect attendance, highest exam score, most improved in math and English, and a tutor award (those picked out by the tutor for growth and behavior). It was all nice. Anne came by and took picture of all the students receiving the certificates and it was super cute. When all was said and done, I also announced the scholarship winners for the term. I gave 1^st place to Agnes with 350 cedis and Enock 2^nd place with 100 cedis. It was super difficult and in the end I decided I would also give some of my own money to Fatima and John because I felt they deserved something. So I am giving each student 100 cedis to help pay for their school fees for this term. I also increased the amount Enock would receive to 200...It was my own choice and it is my own money, but truthfully it is close to just $60 and it will do more for them than me. Whatever. They fucking deserve it and no one can tell me differently....

I ended up staying in Antoa a little longer because on the last day of school the Girl Child Project group at the school was going to learn how to cook traditional Ghanian food. So I stopped by to support my friend Mary, the French teacher at the JHS, and learn something! It was kind of chaotic, but the girls had a lot of fun. As well, my friend Mavis had a dress for me made! So now I have my first sewn Ghanian dress.

All in all, the term did well. My students did show growth, but I am looking to try and have more conversations with the JHS teachers to track the students and see how they improve in school. I know sometimes you won't see the growth because we mostly work on improving basic skills rather than act as remediation, but it would nice to track the students in a more formal way.

But the term was approaching its end, and I was a woman watching towards it to begin my travels. I may have watched the term for a long time to see the future of my travels, but I did not know where these travels would take me. The following posts are based on that saga. The saga of my travels or.....

The Travel Wars....

Easter Break Pt. 2: The Monastery

Overlook of the monastery outside Techimon

After the Sacred Grove everyone decided to go back to Kumasi. I wasn't really feeling like I wanted to go yet, so I decided to stay at the Kristo Buase Benedictine monastery outside of Techimon. I jumped out of the taxi and walked to the place. It was really nice. There were mango trees and cashews everywhere so it smelt amazing. 

The place was built in the 80s in around the giant rock formations. It is really a sight. The place is very calm and quite. They have an area that they use for services that is inside the rocks. They open it up to other churches to have masses there as well. 

The "rock" church

The brothers were pretty nice. They pray at least 5 times a day with mass. I joined them for evening services on Easter Sunday and their mass service on Easter Monday. I also was lead around the property by one of the brothers who showed me the massive amount of property they own. The grow a lot of their own vegetables and crops. They also make alcohol from these same products....

Walking with da brothers

All in all it was a nice experience. Climbed some rocks, fell down a lot of rocks, got lost around same rocks and ventured through a thorn bush trying to get out only to find a gate with barbed wire, then proceded to use the thorns to climb over the wire and gate, and then try to silently creep around the hermitage, only to be spotted by the kithcen staff in his underware staring at me...

And then having a brother try to kiss me and instead lick the side of my face...then apologize and say being a brother is hard and talking a lot about sex....It was fun! I'd stay again, with someone coming with probably. But it really was calm and beautiful. Also, the cook brother made me vegetarian pizza and gave me beer and wine each meal...so nice...so nice.

My room yoooo

You know, just sitting, thinking. 

Easter Break Pt. 1: The Sacred Grove

Over the Easter break I went to the Sacred Grove, a large hiking/eco tourist area outside of Techimon. I went with Kaia, Rachel, Geoff, and Georgie. Kaia and I ventured into the Kumasi market to find a tro heading in that direction and waited patiently for Geoff and Rachel to join us. After that, it was another 2 hours until we arrived. Georgie was there drinking at a spot when we arrived.

We found the guide, and we walked about 10 minutes on an open dirt road to the entrance of the grove. The grove used to be (and is still used) as a sacred ground for the people of the region. The kind of the area used to live in the grove and his guard would watch him. It was also the location for marriages, and any other official duties the king would serve. Now, it is used as mostly a tourist spot, but some ceremonies still happen there.

The rock star pose 

The entrance into the rock grove area. 

The grove is pretty magnificent. When you first enter, there is just a massive amount of trees and growth around you. But after clearing the woods, all you see are huge rocks EVERYWHERE. So needless to say there was a lot of rock climbing going on.

Along the rocks are open lands that remind me of the savanna .

The lion king rock as it is affectionately called. 

Probably the most amusing part was when we came across the "marriage rocks." This is a rock that is mostly smooth, but then has almost 5 equal stair like parts. A long time ago, only a few men could et married each year. They would race to the top, and the first one up would be able to claim whatever bride he wanted. Geoff, Georgie, and I attempted the race. Geoff was doing well, but I wanted to change stairs half way in and tried to shimmy to Geoff's. Unfortunate, I did not get a footing and slide down maybe 8 feet of rock....hurt my arm a bit, but eventually I got back up and climbed to the top. Really nice view, even though I was bleeding...

The marriage rocks

A butterfly reserve in Kumasi

The outside portion of the guest house at the reserve. 

On the weekend of March 28^th I needed some real time away from Antoa and just people in general. I love my roommates and the village, but sometimes you just need to get away and explore. So I decided I would go hiking in Bobiri Butterfly Reserve in Kubease. The reserve is located in Kubease, a village about 13km from Ejisu, with the reserve being a little more than a 5k walk on a dirt path to the actual reserve.

I was planning on going alone, but at the last minute asked Pat if he wanted to go. Excitingly, he said yes and we met in Ejisu to begin our travels. After saying the name wrong multiple times and losing each other in our attempts to meet at the tro tro station, we got on one and were out. We were dropped of in Kubease and followed the signs to the reserve. IT WAS SO HOT THOUGH. Blaring sun with no clouds in the sky around 11am is not fun times. However, we eventually ended up on a dirt road path that was covered by trees. It was nice at that point walking down the road, talking, and blarring the Beastie Boys as we walked.

After a grueling walk, we finally saw the reserve. It is a small three building place with a family living in the back area to maintain the property. We walked up and were told we would have a guide named Edward take us around when we were ready. They brought us to the guest house and we downed a large bottle of water each and rested up before we went hiking. The guest house was very nice. The whole set up reminded me of the cabins at Camp Marydale that I would sit in when I was a little Girl Scout in Louisiana.

Edward with Patrick going over the trees in the area. 

The hike was nice though. Edward has been working at the reserve for 15 years and is very knowledgeable. We went on the three sister hike that was about 3km through the woods where he pointed out all the different types of trees and identified their uses. The trees are all massive. Huge trunks. A lot of the purposes were for medicine use. Typically you cut the bark off and you would boil it with water to drink it as tea.

THESE TREES ARE MASSIVE

The thoughtful selfie

To prevent animals from eating it, the trees grows little spikes so it can SURVIVE

One tree was really interesting. It was almost like a vine because it doesn't grow vertically. It starts in the ground, then curves around, and will curve around trees and the top will go back in the ground. It is supposedly a tree that has a bark that will cure insanity because it is a spiritual tree. However, you are only allowed to collect the bark in the early morning or late afternoon when your shadow will not fall on it. Also, there is some ritual involving an egg...but I wasn't really sure.

All in all nice place. Sadly butterfly season isn't until June/July when the mangoes start growing so I will need to head back another time. But definitely a nice retreat from Kumasi.  

A Pineapple Farm in Antoa

So a few weekends ago my friend Ester asked me to come to the farm with her. I wasn't sure what that meant or what I was supposed to do, but I woke up at 7am as requested. Apparently that was too late for her and she went ahead, but her sister and her neighborhood friend took me to the farm.

The farm, which is a pineapple farm, is located probably 3km behind Primary School Mensa in Antoa. You go up a few hills, under a canopy of vines and palm trees, and through acres of growing pineapples to her family plot. It is super small. Her uncle has a plot near by, but their plot is most likely less than one acre. Ester was already their weeding the pineapples and taking care of the land. Her and her mother sell pineapples in the neighboring towns since there are no farms around there.

I was only there for an hour and a half, but the land out there is gorgeous. I took a lot of pictures with the girls as we hiked back to the main road and to Antoa. It is definitely what Ghanians call “the bush.” In any case though, the bush is magnificent.